We had a great time waxing all touristy. By and large it was fairly miserable weather - as much water in the sky as in the canals - but we did get a brief spell of sunshine on our second evening. We used this to head up the Campanile di San Marco (the bell tower in St Mark's Square) and get a bird's-eye of the city in the setting sun - the Basilica and the Doge's Palace looked amazing.
Like any destination city, however, some of the real gems are off the beaten track - and all the more enjoyable for being a haven from the crowds. This one was a wine and cichetti (Venetian tapas) bar, which I had been recommended by a local, but actually somehow ended up stumbling upon without meaning to. It was fantastic - the lovely wines and moreish bite-sized food were served up by the henpecked but amiable owner. The clientele were all local, and we were completely out of place - but what a great place to be so!The rest of the stay was spent to-ing and fro-ing through the alleyways, which we actually managed to get reasonably familiar with. One of the highlights was getting a tour from a colleague who had retired to live here with her husband. They run these professionally, tailoring days around Venice to the taste of the people they are guiding, up to and including going to the markets and taking food back to cook in their home in a Venetian canal-side mansion. It's going deservedly well, with these "guided tour 2.0"s being booked many months in advance
A couple of nights out on the town rounded off our stay nicely, including a night of opera "highlights" with some classics from various operas being played in one of the scuole of Venice as well as a jazz night in a little bar beside the canal. A great way to spend a couple of days with much-missed friends from afar!









