Returning to the Arabic world, albeit a continent away from my last experience, reminded e of all the amazing things which this wonderful people and culture has to offer. The first thing you notice is the hospitality; upon arriving at our riad, the first call of order is not to check the room, nor hand over passports as a deposit for the room - no, it is to sit and have a tea by the fountain and spend a few minutes getting to know your hosts.
Marrakesh is at once very similar and very contrasting to my experience in the middle east. Far from being a haven from the hordes of western travellers, as Damascus is, this equally intoxicating city is actually host to 1.5 million visitors a year - 50% more than the number of people that live here on a permanent basis. It is to Damascus that comparisons have to be drawn, as the bustling life of the souks and beautiful old town reminded me of no other place more than that beautiful city in the heart of Syria.
Like many of their counterparts around the Arabic world, the lives of the Marrekchi are hidden; behind tiny doors, leading off endlessly twisting and shoulder-grazingly narrow alleys, lie stunning courtyards and interiors (the above is that of our riad, whimsicially named "Chouia Chouia" - roughly translating to "little by little"). Most of the medina (city centre) is like this - save for the huge central plaza, Jamar el Fna, which, whether by contrast or in truth, was one of the biggest open spaces I've seen in a city. It is here the heart of the city beats - it seems that it is here that people find their entertainment, with thousands of locals converging on the street entertainers and food stalls every evening.
The city is in general one of contrasts; as is the tendency in any town over-run by outsiders, people on the street will by turn be friendly and hostile. The maniacal busy-ness of the souks and squares is counterbalanced with the calm of the restaurants and coffeehouses. Street vendors sell simple traditional fare, and nearby, western-influenced restaurants are making their mark on the international food scene.
There are few certains; just when you are sure that yet another person approaching you is going to ask you for money whether you accept their help or not, they genuinely and courteously go out of their way to aid you before walking on down the street, the "non merci" on your tongue making you feel quite silly and not a little bit guilty for behaving so suspiciously.
